Buying a property is probably the biggest investment most people will ever carry out. It can be a very stressful process with so many factors involved. I've put together some of the key factors that arise when purchasing a property which I hope will ease the stress just a little and make house hunting a bit more exiting.
The following topics are based on procedures and costs that are present now but as with all financial matters they can change from time to time so they are only meant as guide lines, always talk to advisers and mortgage brokers to find out up to date facts.
Monday, 20 October 2008
How Much can I Afford?
The first thing you need to do is work out how much you can spend on a house. The biggest factor involved with this is, how much money you bring in annually. There are however, many other factors that are taken into consideration when working out your budget.
Most people will be offered around 4.5 times their annual income by a mortgage broker but there are several things that can reduce or increase the amount offered.
Having a joint application will have a big effect on the amount offered, if, for example, you are married and your partner is on a low wage or income it is better NOT to go for a joint mortgage, an average between both incomes will be used rather than your total household income. If you have children, again, an amount will be deducted from the final offer for each dependent.
The bigger the deposit you have will make positive effect on your application, not only will you be able to add this to your mortgage amount to have a bigger grand total for house hunting, but also a mortgage lender may push up the amount they can give you and lower the interest rate. You will need at least a 5% deposit but 10% or even 25% will give you a better deal with a lower interest rate.
*There is now some GREAT NEWS for people on TAX CREDITS!!!*
There are quite a few mortgage brokers around now that are tax credit friendly, they will work out your income including your working tax credits and family tax credits. The best one i have found myself is Halifax.
There are lots of mortgage calculators online which are good, BBC mortgage calculator, Lloyds TSB, Money Matters, Halifax, Money supermarket.com etc.. Which can give you an idea of repayment amounts but always talk to an advisor for a more up to date account of interest rates and monthly payments.
Independent advisers at estate agents are very good and can give you lots of up to date information however, I have found better deals by going straight to the mortgage brokers and talking to their advisers. Most building societies and banks will have their own advisers such as HALIFAX, LLOYDSTSB, ABBEY, NAT WEST, NATIONWIDE and HS BC
When you work out how much you can spend remember to allow for insurances. You will have to take out various insurance covers such as life cover, mortgage protection and building insurance. Theses will have to be in place or the lender will not give you the loan. You can get quotes from estate agents or mortgage brokers but it sometimes works out a bit cheaper to go straight to insurance companies such as Direct line insurance, Zurich, Prudential or Axa. Some supermarkets offer great deals on insurance. Just make sure that the mortgage lender is happy with the level of cover that you have.
Most people will be offered around 4.5 times their annual income by a mortgage broker but there are several things that can reduce or increase the amount offered.
Having a joint application will have a big effect on the amount offered, if, for example, you are married and your partner is on a low wage or income it is better NOT to go for a joint mortgage, an average between both incomes will be used rather than your total household income. If you have children, again, an amount will be deducted from the final offer for each dependent.
The bigger the deposit you have will make positive effect on your application, not only will you be able to add this to your mortgage amount to have a bigger grand total for house hunting, but also a mortgage lender may push up the amount they can give you and lower the interest rate. You will need at least a 5% deposit but 10% or even 25% will give you a better deal with a lower interest rate.
*There is now some GREAT NEWS for people on TAX CREDITS!!!*
There are quite a few mortgage brokers around now that are tax credit friendly, they will work out your income including your working tax credits and family tax credits. The best one i have found myself is Halifax.
There are lots of mortgage calculators online which are good, BBC mortgage calculator, Lloyds TSB, Money Matters, Halifax, Money supermarket.com etc.. Which can give you an idea of repayment amounts but always talk to an advisor for a more up to date account of interest rates and monthly payments.
Independent advisers at estate agents are very good and can give you lots of up to date information however, I have found better deals by going straight to the mortgage brokers and talking to their advisers. Most building societies and banks will have their own advisers such as HALIFAX, LLOYDSTSB, ABBEY, NAT WEST, NATIONWIDE and HS BC
When you work out how much you can spend remember to allow for insurances. You will have to take out various insurance covers such as life cover, mortgage protection and building insurance. Theses will have to be in place or the lender will not give you the loan. You can get quotes from estate agents or mortgage brokers but it sometimes works out a bit cheaper to go straight to insurance companies such as Direct line insurance, Zurich, Prudential or Axa. Some supermarkets offer great deals on insurance. Just make sure that the mortgage lender is happy with the level of cover that you have.
Finding a Home.
This is the fun part. There isn't much I can say about finding a house as everybody tastes and needs are different.
The best thing to do is just keep looking. Drive or walk around areas you would like to move to, keep a look out for 'FOR SALE' signs. Keep an eye out in local papers, most areas will have a weekly property page or supplement.
Search your local estate agents web sites on a daily basis, most of them will have a search tool on them so all you have to do is fill in the relevant boxes and the best results will be displayed for you. If you do spot something you like its always worth checking to see if it is also registered with any other estate agents, I found a property at an estate agent that was £5,000 cheaper with a different one!
Sign up to estate agents mailing lists, they will send you relevant property information as soon as it comes in.
There are some great property finding sites on the Internet, FISH4HOMES and RIGHT MOVE are my favourites. You fill in the relevant boxes with your desired post code, eg, NP7 or MA22, and the search engine will scan nearly all the estate agents sites in seconds and display all the matching property's around that post code area.
When you do spot something you like, book a viewing. You can usually do this online. View as many property's as you can, if you need a second look, don't be afraid to book a second viewing.
Don't be rushed into putting in an offer, its your choice so make it the right one.
Find out what you can about the property's that you are viewing. Find out if its a repossession, if it is freehold and if there is no chain. You can view the hips report online, there is a huge amount of information available in these reports. There are also sites that can give estimates of the value of the property and information on when and how much it was last purchased for.
Use google earth and have a look at the surrounding buildings and gardens. Google earth can also help with the finding process. Anything you spot on a web site or newspaper, Google earth will take you straight there, without leaving your living room!
Friends and family can also keep on eye out, they might hear that someone is selling and that will give you a head start before it even gets to the estate agent.
The best thing to do is just keep looking. Drive or walk around areas you would like to move to, keep a look out for 'FOR SALE' signs. Keep an eye out in local papers, most areas will have a weekly property page or supplement.
Search your local estate agents web sites on a daily basis, most of them will have a search tool on them so all you have to do is fill in the relevant boxes and the best results will be displayed for you. If you do spot something you like its always worth checking to see if it is also registered with any other estate agents, I found a property at an estate agent that was £5,000 cheaper with a different one!
Sign up to estate agents mailing lists, they will send you relevant property information as soon as it comes in.
There are some great property finding sites on the Internet, FISH4HOMES and RIGHT MOVE are my favourites. You fill in the relevant boxes with your desired post code, eg, NP7 or MA22, and the search engine will scan nearly all the estate agents sites in seconds and display all the matching property's around that post code area.
When you do spot something you like, book a viewing. You can usually do this online. View as many property's as you can, if you need a second look, don't be afraid to book a second viewing.
Don't be rushed into putting in an offer, its your choice so make it the right one.
Find out what you can about the property's that you are viewing. Find out if its a repossession, if it is freehold and if there is no chain. You can view the hips report online, there is a huge amount of information available in these reports. There are also sites that can give estimates of the value of the property and information on when and how much it was last purchased for.
Use google earth and have a look at the surrounding buildings and gardens. Google earth can also help with the finding process. Anything you spot on a web site or newspaper, Google earth will take you straight there, without leaving your living room!
Friends and family can also keep on eye out, they might hear that someone is selling and that will give you a head start before it even gets to the estate agent.
Buying a Repossession.
Buying a repossession property is slightly different to a normal sale.
Firstly, there is a big chance that the property is in need of some refurbishment. On viewing you will get an idea of what may need doing. Quite often it will be mainly cosmetic work such as carpets and wall paper but keep in mind that the previous owners were probably evicted over financial reasons and important up keep of the property may have been neglected for some time.
The property will normally be 'sold as seen' which can mean that nothing has been tested within that property such as gas, electric and water fixtures and fittings. Costs could rocket up with a faulty electric meter or gas boiler.
There could also be outstanding credit secured to the property (chattels) which the vendor has no obligation to clear, this could lead to a legal battle depending on the amount. Chattels are quite often written off due to a bankruptcy notice and don't normally cause issues, but its always worth keeping in mind that you don't know what financial situation the previous owner was in.
The condition of the property can also have an effect on your mortgage offer. If the valuation of the property comes back lower than the price you have offered then the mortgage broker can hold back part of the mortgage until necessary repair work has been done. You do then have the right to renegotiate the purchase price but the chances are that you have got the property at the lowest asking price anyway.
With repossession property's you must show the estate agent proof that you have a mortgage offer in place, this can be obtained by your mortgage broker free of charge, and proof of I.D, before an offer can be sent to the seller.
Finally, there is a great bonus to repossessions, the price!! It is a great way to pick up a bargain. If you are prepared to do a property up, then this is the way to go. You will find these property's listed as regular sales on most estate agents sites so they may be hard to spot. Key words like 'in need of updating/refurbishment' are usually clues, a sheet of paper stuck to the front door/window can give the game away and, of course, the low asking price.
Firstly, there is a big chance that the property is in need of some refurbishment. On viewing you will get an idea of what may need doing. Quite often it will be mainly cosmetic work such as carpets and wall paper but keep in mind that the previous owners were probably evicted over financial reasons and important up keep of the property may have been neglected for some time.
The property will normally be 'sold as seen' which can mean that nothing has been tested within that property such as gas, electric and water fixtures and fittings. Costs could rocket up with a faulty electric meter or gas boiler.
There could also be outstanding credit secured to the property (chattels) which the vendor has no obligation to clear, this could lead to a legal battle depending on the amount. Chattels are quite often written off due to a bankruptcy notice and don't normally cause issues, but its always worth keeping in mind that you don't know what financial situation the previous owner was in.
The condition of the property can also have an effect on your mortgage offer. If the valuation of the property comes back lower than the price you have offered then the mortgage broker can hold back part of the mortgage until necessary repair work has been done. You do then have the right to renegotiate the purchase price but the chances are that you have got the property at the lowest asking price anyway.
With repossession property's you must show the estate agent proof that you have a mortgage offer in place, this can be obtained by your mortgage broker free of charge, and proof of I.D, before an offer can be sent to the seller.
Finally, there is a great bonus to repossessions, the price!! It is a great way to pick up a bargain. If you are prepared to do a property up, then this is the way to go. You will find these property's listed as regular sales on most estate agents sites so they may be hard to spot. Key words like 'in need of updating/refurbishment' are usually clues, a sheet of paper stuck to the front door/window can give the game away and, of course, the low asking price.
Buying at Auction.
If you are a first time buyer then an auction is probably not the way to go. When a bidder wins a property they have to pay either 5 or 10% there and then. You also must insure the property straight away. After that you will have 28 days to pay the rest in full or you will lose the deposit and property. Most mortgage brokers will not release a mortgage for a property won at auction. Even if they would they cannot guarantee it will be ready within 28 days.
Estate agents can give you all the information you need on auction days/times, and all the information about bidders guides and bidding numbers.
When you view an auction property it is usually as a group viewing. You will always get other punters trying to put you off bidding, you'll hear a lot of sighs, tuts and "oh dear, look at that!"'s.
Don't be put off if you are serious about bidding, make your own mind up.
Just like repossessions the property is likely to need work doing to it and essential aspects may not be tested.
Auctions are suited more for the property developer with wads of cash ready, but with the right information and funding a cheap home could be won by anyone, but I personally wouldn't take the risk.
Estate agents can give you all the information you need on auction days/times, and all the information about bidders guides and bidding numbers.
When you view an auction property it is usually as a group viewing. You will always get other punters trying to put you off bidding, you'll hear a lot of sighs, tuts and "oh dear, look at that!"'s.
Don't be put off if you are serious about bidding, make your own mind up.
Just like repossessions the property is likely to need work doing to it and essential aspects may not be tested.
Auctions are suited more for the property developer with wads of cash ready, but with the right information and funding a cheap home could be won by anyone, but I personally wouldn't take the risk.
Making an Offer.
When you have decided on a property its time to make an offer. Its always worth going lower than your actual offer price as your first offer has a good chance of being turned down. This way you can put a second offer in without going over your budget. There is also that chance that you'll get it a little bit cheaper than the asking price. As a guide I would offer around 5-10% lower than asking price but it all depends what the asking price is.
Remember that repossession property's require you to provide proof of mortgage offer and I.D. before you can make an offer so, see your mortgage broker first.
You will hear the result from your offer anything from 1 hour after, to 3 weeks after. This all depends on the seller.
Remember that repossession property's require you to provide proof of mortgage offer and I.D. before you can make an offer so, see your mortgage broker first.
You will hear the result from your offer anything from 1 hour after, to 3 weeks after. This all depends on the seller.
The Mortgage.
The most important part of buying a property is obviously the funding. Before you even start the house hunting process it is advisable to look into getting a mortgage. As I have said previously, you need to work out how much you can afford to spend on a property and whether or not you can borrow the amount you would like to. SEE THE SECTION..HOW MUCH CAN I AFFORD?
You then must think about what type of mortgage you want and how long do you want it for.
There are thousands of different mortgages on the market to choose from such as, higher lending, lower lending, poor credit, self assessed, guaranteed, split equity and so on, so it would be impractical to cover them all so I will just go through the main types of mortgage.
PRODUCT FEE
Some mortgages will have product fees which means you have to buy the mortgage from the broker, the prices are normally from about £200 up to £1000. The advantage of getting a mortgage with a product fee is usually that you will get a much better interest rate. The rate can be up to 3% lower than a product with no fee. This fee will normally be added to the mortgage so you won't even have an up front bill to pay. On a quick calculation I found that i could save about £45 per month by opting for a mortgage with a £299 fee. The interest rate was reduced from 7.4% down to 6.3%. These offers do change on a daily basis so you must talk to mortgage brokers about up to date offers.
Your deposit will also affect the interest rate, normally the bigger the deposit, the lower the interest rate.
REPAYMENT MORTGAGE
The repayment mortgage is probably the best one to go for as the grand total of the loan is steadily payed off. Each month you pay an installment of interest and a small bit off your mortgage amount. After the set amount of years, the mortgage is payed in full.
INTEREST ONLY
With this type of mortgage you only pay the monthly interest charge. This will make your monthly outgoings a lot cheaper but, after the set mortgage time, e.g, 25 years or 30 years, you will be sent a bill for the original amount borrowed. Back in the 60's the average price for a house was around £3000, so people who took out one of these types of mortgage were in the long run, better off. Now however the average house price is about £125,000, so unless you think that a bill for £100,000+ in thirty years time will be easy to pay, I'd probably opt for a repayment mortgage.
The interest rate will be set by a number of factors, product fee, size of deposit, size of loan, the bank of England base rate and weather its a TRACKER or FIXED RATE mortgage.
TRACKER MORTGAGE
The interest rate in a tracker mortgage will follow the ups and downs of the Bank of England's base rate. If, for example, the base rate is 5% then a tracker will set your interest rate at about 1.2 above it. In this example your interest rate would be 6.2% If interest rates went down, then so would your mortgage payments. However, if they went up your interest rate would follow it up to.
FIXED RATE
With the fixed rate mortgage you can freeze the interests rate for the number of years that you choose. If the base rate suddenly shoots up, remembering back in the 80's when the base rate went up to around 14%, your monthly bill will not be affected. You will carry on paying at the rate you chose at the start of the mortgage agreement. This is a much safer option if you don't know what the base rate is going to do. The only down side is that if the base rate drops, you will be paying more than if you were on a tracker, but lets face it, it can go a lot further up than it can go down. With a fixed rate mortgage you will be locked into that offer for a set number of years, normally 3 or 5 years.
After you have chosen your mortgage the broker will do a quick credit rating check and then print off the details as a 'proof of mortgage offer'. This offer is usually valid for about 6 months so you don't have to rush into a purchase. If the base rate goes up after the mortgage offer, your interest rate will not be affected. If it goes down, sometimes the lender will reduce the interest on your offer. You can't loose! This offer is not legally binding so don't panic if you decide not to take up the offer.
You then must think about what type of mortgage you want and how long do you want it for.
There are thousands of different mortgages on the market to choose from such as, higher lending, lower lending, poor credit, self assessed, guaranteed, split equity and so on, so it would be impractical to cover them all so I will just go through the main types of mortgage.
PRODUCT FEE
Some mortgages will have product fees which means you have to buy the mortgage from the broker, the prices are normally from about £200 up to £1000. The advantage of getting a mortgage with a product fee is usually that you will get a much better interest rate. The rate can be up to 3% lower than a product with no fee. This fee will normally be added to the mortgage so you won't even have an up front bill to pay. On a quick calculation I found that i could save about £45 per month by opting for a mortgage with a £299 fee. The interest rate was reduced from 7.4% down to 6.3%. These offers do change on a daily basis so you must talk to mortgage brokers about up to date offers.
Your deposit will also affect the interest rate, normally the bigger the deposit, the lower the interest rate.
REPAYMENT MORTGAGE
The repayment mortgage is probably the best one to go for as the grand total of the loan is steadily payed off. Each month you pay an installment of interest and a small bit off your mortgage amount. After the set amount of years, the mortgage is payed in full.
INTEREST ONLY
With this type of mortgage you only pay the monthly interest charge. This will make your monthly outgoings a lot cheaper but, after the set mortgage time, e.g, 25 years or 30 years, you will be sent a bill for the original amount borrowed. Back in the 60's the average price for a house was around £3000, so people who took out one of these types of mortgage were in the long run, better off. Now however the average house price is about £125,000, so unless you think that a bill for £100,000+ in thirty years time will be easy to pay, I'd probably opt for a repayment mortgage.
The interest rate will be set by a number of factors, product fee, size of deposit, size of loan, the bank of England base rate and weather its a TRACKER or FIXED RATE mortgage.
TRACKER MORTGAGE
The interest rate in a tracker mortgage will follow the ups and downs of the Bank of England's base rate. If, for example, the base rate is 5% then a tracker will set your interest rate at about 1.2 above it. In this example your interest rate would be 6.2% If interest rates went down, then so would your mortgage payments. However, if they went up your interest rate would follow it up to.
FIXED RATE
With the fixed rate mortgage you can freeze the interests rate for the number of years that you choose. If the base rate suddenly shoots up, remembering back in the 80's when the base rate went up to around 14%, your monthly bill will not be affected. You will carry on paying at the rate you chose at the start of the mortgage agreement. This is a much safer option if you don't know what the base rate is going to do. The only down side is that if the base rate drops, you will be paying more than if you were on a tracker, but lets face it, it can go a lot further up than it can go down. With a fixed rate mortgage you will be locked into that offer for a set number of years, normally 3 or 5 years.
After you have chosen your mortgage the broker will do a quick credit rating check and then print off the details as a 'proof of mortgage offer'. This offer is usually valid for about 6 months so you don't have to rush into a purchase. If the base rate goes up after the mortgage offer, your interest rate will not be affected. If it goes down, sometimes the lender will reduce the interest on your offer. You can't loose! This offer is not legally binding so don't panic if you decide not to take up the offer.
Valuation and Survey.
Once you have made an offer that has been accepted you then need to arrange for a survey company to carry out a valuation and survey. This survey will be used to make your final mortgage offer, you then have the right to go ahead with the purchase, renegotiate the price with the seller or back out of the purchase completely.
**You are still not legally bound to buy the property even after the survey is done**
(You will however have to pay the survey costs)
The surveys are usually broken down into 3 category's :-
**You are still not legally bound to buy the property even after the survey is done**
(You will however have to pay the survey costs)
The surveys are usually broken down into 3 category's :-
THE BASIC SURVEY
This is a brief report on the property based on a limited inspection of the readily visible and accessible areas of the property.
- Brief exterior inspection
- Report of any major structural problems
- Roof covering from ground level only
- Brief internal inspection
- Damp tests
- Roof space inspection
- Visual inspection of gas and electrical equipment
- Valuation
- Approximate cost is £250+ (based on a property valued around £100,000)
LEVEL 2 SURVEY
A more detailed inspection of the property
- General exterior inspection
- Report of any major structural problems
- Flat and pitched roof inspection from ground or ladder
- Brief drain inspection
- General internal inspection
- Damp tests
- General roof space inspection
- Visual inspection of gas and electrical equipment
- Limited sub-floor space inspection
- Window inspection
- Valuation
- Approximate cost is £450+ (based on a property valued around £100,000)
LEVEL 3 SURVEY
A detailed inspection of the property which can be taylor made to your requirements
- Detailed exterior inspection
- Report of any major structural problems
- Detailed roof inspection
- Drain inspection
- Foundation inspection
- Detailed internal inspection
- Damp tests
- Roof space inspection
- Sub-floor space inspection
- Window inspection
- Testing gas and electrical equipment
- Valuation
- Approximate cost is £850+ (based on a property valued around £100,000)
Conveyancing - The Legal Part.
While you're having your valuation done you need to arrange a conveyancer. This is the qualified person who will check the legal title and obtain all the searches to check whether there's anything that could adversely affect the property and its value. Your conveyancer will deal with the documents and liaise with the sellers conveyancer. They'll arrange the exchange of contracts and agree to a completion date.
Many conveyancers will work to a 'no sale no fee' policy so even if the valuation brings back bad news and/or you decide not to go ahead with the purchase, you should not loose anything by arranging the conveyancer in advance.
When a sale does go ahead you and your conveyancer will be sent a copy of the mortgage details in full, you then need to go and see the conveyancer and he will talk you through it.
They will then set about the searches and legal work. This is quite an expensive procedure so make sure you budget for it. Normal conveyancing and legal fees will cost from around £400 to around £700. Some will offer you a fixed price plan which may be a good idea, if there is any problems with the purchase then you will not be charged for the extra work carried out.
The mortgage broker can advise you about the best and cheapest conveyancers in your area.
Some of the work carried out by the conveyancer will be local Authority searches, drainage searches, land registry searches, bankruptcy searches, telegraphic transfers and other searches. These searches are done to make sure there is nothing that could affect the property in anyway or reduce its value.
There are also other fees that you will need to budget for such as mortgage lenders fees, land registry fees, land tax administration fees and other transfer fees. You will need to discuss with the conveyancer and mortgage lender about who you pay for these extra charges.
Don't forget to budget for stamp duty. Any property over the value of £125,000 will be subject to stamp duty. This is 1% of the purchase price over £125,000, 2% over the value of
£250,000 and 3% over the value of £500,000.
Once all the legal work has been done you will be asked to sign the contracts and pay the deposit, up to this point you are still not legally bound to purchase the property. When the deposit is paid and contracts signed you are legally bound to complete the transaction, the coveyancer will then contact the mortgage broker to have the balance transferred.
All that is left to do is collect the keys!
Many conveyancers will work to a 'no sale no fee' policy so even if the valuation brings back bad news and/or you decide not to go ahead with the purchase, you should not loose anything by arranging the conveyancer in advance.
When a sale does go ahead you and your conveyancer will be sent a copy of the mortgage details in full, you then need to go and see the conveyancer and he will talk you through it.
They will then set about the searches and legal work. This is quite an expensive procedure so make sure you budget for it. Normal conveyancing and legal fees will cost from around £400 to around £700. Some will offer you a fixed price plan which may be a good idea, if there is any problems with the purchase then you will not be charged for the extra work carried out.
The mortgage broker can advise you about the best and cheapest conveyancers in your area.
Some of the work carried out by the conveyancer will be local Authority searches, drainage searches, land registry searches, bankruptcy searches, telegraphic transfers and other searches. These searches are done to make sure there is nothing that could affect the property in anyway or reduce its value.
There are also other fees that you will need to budget for such as mortgage lenders fees, land registry fees, land tax administration fees and other transfer fees. You will need to discuss with the conveyancer and mortgage lender about who you pay for these extra charges.
Don't forget to budget for stamp duty. Any property over the value of £125,000 will be subject to stamp duty. This is 1% of the purchase price over £125,000, 2% over the value of
£250,000 and 3% over the value of £500,000.
Once all the legal work has been done you will be asked to sign the contracts and pay the deposit, up to this point you are still not legally bound to purchase the property. When the deposit is paid and contracts signed you are legally bound to complete the transaction, the coveyancer will then contact the mortgage broker to have the balance transferred.
All that is left to do is collect the keys!
Final Stages - Collecting the Keys.
Most of the stress is over now and all you have to do is move!
Prepare well in advance, moving day is hectic at the best of times. Try to have all the non essential items packed and labeled well before moving day, if you live in rented accommodation make sure your landlord has received notice, send out new address cards to your friends and family.
Make sure your movers will be on time and they know exactly where to go. Take meter readings to make sure you are billed correctly, you will also need to do this at your new home.
Don't forget to inform people of your new address...
Prepare well in advance, moving day is hectic at the best of times. Try to have all the non essential items packed and labeled well before moving day, if you live in rented accommodation make sure your landlord has received notice, send out new address cards to your friends and family.
Make sure your movers will be on time and they know exactly where to go. Take meter readings to make sure you are billed correctly, you will also need to do this at your new home.
Don't forget to inform people of your new address...
- Bank / building society
- Store card companies
- Credit card companies
- DVLA
- Car insurance and breakdown companies
- Your employer
- Your Tax office
- Doctor , dentist and optician
- Schools
- TV licencing and TV providers
- Catalogues
- Vet
- Newspaper/newsletters delivery companies
- Library
- Internet provider
- Cleaners
- Gym, sport and social clubs
- Holiday clubs
- Phone companies
- Water board
- Gas board
- electricity board
- Tax credit office
- Benefit office
- Friends
- Family
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